Villa Isabella

As mentioned, I knew a proper lunch was on the cards yesterday and it was exactly that but when I explained to Donnato and Luisa, who looked after me so well, that I wanted a long, slow, molto tranquillo lunch, I didn't expect it to finish at 2am, after they, and Enzo, the owner of the Embarcadero, insisted that I join them for dinner (restaurant closes for dinner on Tuesday's). What made it even more fun was the mutual gesticulations and general flailing of limbs to get our messages and stories across. Bloody hilarious! So this morning, when I awoke to what I thought was a heavy, clog-clad beetle, doing a 'Hollands Got Talent' audition on my forehead, it was in fact rain bouncing off my tightly, guy-roped tent. One look (only one eye working at this point), out of the tent and the cloud cover was heavier than my head. Time to charge on. Quick shower to Smooth Radio 102.2 via the iPhone (got another mention today, that's 3 so far on this trip, I keep them in touch with texts) and I feel a lot better and ready for wagon's roll.
It's 400 kms to the ferry for Sicily, I'm in rain and the occasional thunderbolt lights up the sea; not sure this is doable today as it's a late start and I did promise a final cappuccino at the Embarcadero before I left. Ciao, ciao, ciao and I'm on my way.

Probably could have got to the triangle-island today if I gunned it down the autostrada but that's not what this trip is about. So I stuck to hugging the coastline which down here is a bit like the Amalfi coast but stretched out.

It's 4pm and yesterday's party is taking it's toll so I stop for yet another coffee at a delightful roadside cafe. Take the look of Mortisha from the Adams Family and infuse it with the personality of Bette Midler and you have the vivaciously, glorious, got to be 60 years old at least, owner of this cafe. She was simply fantastic! Never have I seen so much life in one body; plug her in to the grid and she could single-handedly power the globe. As time disappeared watching and engaging with 'I can't believe I didn't ask her name', the idea of Sicily today was a total no-no; so back on the bike and eyes open for a bunk. Not going to pitch, coz it's just for one night.

About 15 clicks later, a hand painted sign, "Villa Isabella - Zimmer" with a drawing of a motorcycle. Immediate decision, hard left and straight up the hill, I went. Perfect, but there's something not quite Italian about this place.
"Buon giorno". Yep, as I soon discovered, this is Isabella; well, I knew she was going to be fun just looking at her. Henna'd, down her back hair, glasses as big as dinner plates, dressed in garden clothes with the odd splash of different coloured paints here and there and a perfect posture ... Isabella is 72.
"Ver hav you come from?" (the 'Zimmer' on the sign gave that away)
"UK", I say
"Vell, you need a drink"

Two large wine glasses of white wine, lots of ice, lemon peel and Campari later (great refreshing slurp by the way) and all makes sense; in her 20's she was a dancer at the Lido in Paris; Monaco and yachts; Ambassador's parties in Rome; the tales, even if tall, were passionately delivered and she had my complete attention. I don't know how many extraordinary personalities I can take in one day but my lead head and lethargy just disappeared. What a fab day and one that started so grey but finished
with proper characters, great tales and bags of laughter.

OK, after breakfast, (which I know will be an omelette and I'm so excited about that as when Liliana, Isabella's Romanian helper mentioned it, I realised that I haven't had an egg since I left the UK! Why is that important? Well, it isn't, but it is now!) it's a 100 kilometre blast to the tip of the boot, Villa San Giovani, where I will take the 20 minute ferry to Messina, Sicily.

Very excited about Sicily, think time may pass easily there ...

Take care, wherever you are x


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