Monday 30 May 2011

Caprioli Wins

While cruising up and down the immediate coastline this afternoon, I stopped for a coffee. Well, decision made, Caprioli you have me sold for at least another day and I think you will agree with me. My table for lunch tomorrow is in a shady corner with the fullest, lushest, greenest vine, my umbrella and the legs of the table already in sand because it is that close to the beach ...


A proper long and lazy lunch is brewing, ooooh yesh. I shall go without food tonight to make sure I'm ravenous by midday tomorrow, then feast like JC (not the 5 loaves and sushi JC, the Roman Emperor fellow that was coltello'd). What's more, while I was sipping my cafe at this restaurant, I overheard the "il conto" for a table of three that had just finished lunch ... 26 Euros, wine included! Get away from the heavy tourist spots and it really is cheap down south.


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Too Many Vistas

Another cappuccino, another glorious backdrop ... and I only popped into town for some groceries. You just can't get bored of this ...


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Good Morning Monday

Morning campers or should I say camper, as it's only me, yippee! Great night's sleep, what a difference an air bed makes and this is the view from my bedroom ...


Camera on the iPhone isn't really powerful enough but that's the sea through the olive trees. Going to stay here today, loving it.


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Sunday 29 May 2011

The Daddy





Wow; nĂºmero uno; top dog; gold star; The Daddy! Ingredients: BMW R1200GS, eternally winding road, rugged coastline, spectacular views, breath-taking scenery and glorious weather. I did the entire length of the Amalfi Coast this morning and it is, for all the above reasons, the best ride I have ever done; so much to take in and all on one stretch of road. Stunning!
It's Sunday and the boys are out on their bikes too which made for some competitive fun and to top it all off, as I was descending into Salerno, 50 to 60 Ferrari's passed me, one after another, travelling the other way; must have been an Owners Club outing with nearly all the models that Enzo manufactured present. Oh and the ground-shaking roars that blasted from their pipes as their sweaty-palmed drivers accelerated up the hill behind me was a 'Sound of Italy' and totally drowned out my twin cylinders which certainly aren't quiet.
I also ignored the GPS on a couple of occasions and went with my instinct which proved right each time as on the way to Positano yesterday, at one point I was riding up a narrow, house-lined, cobbled street that was barely wider than the bike's handlebars and seemed to gone for ever. Had an Italian mama stepped out of her front door at the time, she would have been riding pillion before she could scream "Mama Mia".




So back to riding; I was enjoying the coast road so much that I thought I would keep on hugging the shore. The vistas depreciated after Salerno but my trusty Michelin Italia map suggested 'scenic routes' ahead and they certainly did. Agropoli, Castellabate, Acciaroli, then a trio of Marina di's; Casal Velino, Ascea and Pisciotta. At this point I remembered my 'you have time' thoughts and decided to look out for a campsite. Passed many, but then, I think this is the one; it's in Caprioli.



I think I'm the only person on this site, certainly the only camper, but it is early in the Italian season, I'm sure it's very different in July and August. Also of note is the price, 7 Euros a night including showers and electricity; quite a difference from the 70 Euros a night in Positano.



Pitched in the shade of olive trees and a view out over the Med, it's peaceful and the beach, which for now is my own, is steeply below. I will stay here for a day or two, catch some rays and catch-up with Jack Kerouac's road travels.




It's now evening and the sun is settling and after a Campari soda that came with a recommendation for dinner, I now find myself in a wonderful Agro Tourismo up in the hills, the sea the horizon. I do love these places and Italy is full of them. They have a warm, family feel that is both rustic and charming, but I could do with my Dad at the table to help me with the farmer sized, 'I've been working in the fields all day' portions. And it's cheap.

The next day or two will be quiet and I will be chilling out, so please excuse any lack of blogging. Have a good week wherever you are and with whatever you do x

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Location:Caprioli, Italy

So Glad

So glad I decided to visit the Amalfi Coast; it really is glorious. Tight and  narrow roads that have literally been cut into the mountains and buildings that must use the best super-glue yet to be invented. But if you have been here or seen the documentaries (Two Greedy Italians, the latest) then this is nothing of a surprise and frankly a cliche of this coastline. I wasn't sure how long I would stay when I got here but after a delightful time it will only be for 2 days. I have seen and taken all in, I am satisfied and therefore can move on.  A splendid lunch, pics of which I have already shared; a wander around the tiny cobbled lanes and the Champions League Final in a friendly bar where I was the only Man U supporter (not that I am, but being a Libran I was trying to create balance!) and a promise to Vincenzo that I would return to the exact same table if Napoli are in next year's final. [I have just re-read this and what a bizzare summation of the Amalfi Coast that even involves football, but trust me, it worked]

Positano is especially dreamlike and I have loved every second but it is a classic tourist destination with tour buses squeezing through constantly and too many American and English tones. Expenses are the same as London and all here have no qualms cashing in on this natural beauty, not in a bad way I should add, it really is a pleasure to be here. For example, close to the perfectly positioned restaurant where I was lunching, an artist was set with his easel, upon which, his quite beautiful water-colour work of the surrounding vistas, were on display. His location, perfect. As the tourists come off the 'See Positano from the Sea' boat trips, they see his paintings of the exact same views they have just shuttered. Now add the artist himself to the scenario; Santa Claus type character but salt-and-pepper beard and hair, floral shirt, braces holding up slightly creased, linen trousers just under his huggable ponch, all supported on moccasin type comfortable shoes, throw in the friendliest grandad smile you have ever witnessed and they are just queueing up. Deserves it all.

Although it's still a long way away, the closer I get to Sicily, my new ultimate destination in Italy, the more I want to get there which has totally replaced my initial apprehension. I have a feeling that I will spend some time there but I don't know why. Oh and strangely, checking on the weather which is a motorcyclist thing, I note that it seems to get colder the further you go south!! Still 23 degreesC though.

I haven't checked the maps yet but I know it is about 600 Kms to the tip of the boot by AutoStrada, however, I will follow the coast which will at least double that figure and I will take my time.

It's one o'clock and I'm done now so sleep well and if you are already asleep, dream well. Buona notte x

Saturday 28 May 2011

Dolci

This'll be the lemon sorbet then ... Just a wild guess!



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Simply Stunning

I'm in a dream, more later ... this Positano on a plate ... Outstanding!




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Friday 27 May 2011

Stay A Day

Although the weather is improving, I'm going to stay another day and read on the balcony, not a bad place to chill-out ...

An early start to the Amalfi coast tomorrow ... very excited.

Happy Friday y'all.

PS Oh and if you're anywhere near Cardiff and are free this Saturday night (28th) then have some fun with Paul Phillips and his gang at his Charity event. It's fun and will be worth it. Please click the link below for more ...
https://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=130384483691333

Thursday 26 May 2011

Take Time .. The Sequel

You know that time thing I was rabbiting on about ... well, what in hell's name was I doing today? I packed up with kind "bon voyage" farewells from near-by pitched camping folk and rode off knowing I was heading towards dodgy weather. OK, so I want to go South, the Amalfi coast and Sicily the reasons, but you have time, wait for the weather to change ... idiot! That was the realisation of yesterday which I now realise was no more an epiphany than Tesco's changing the price of Baked Beans! I left a glorious place and what's even worse, due to lack of map focus, I managed to bypass more spectacular lakes (as also informed by a local-knowledgeable school friend who has a house North of Rome) and to be honest, for not very nice places with people that left me a little unsettled; I am well South of Rome at this point.

We've all heard of the North/South divide in Italy, well based on my limited experience I can tell you it's just south of Rome.

Naples? ... Take off your wrist watch (which isn't that fancy); remove your GPS; keep an eye on your bike; don't go to that area, this area, etc.,etc., and those are the comments from Italians never mind the stories from people I know who have visited and news reports.
You know, I think I will by-pass Naples, which is kind of a shame as I'm not easily influenced and I'm sure many have been and loved it. Made romantic by Hollywood and Disney, but reports of it's overall cleanliness and safety leave me cold; maybe unfair but I have 'Gone South' for two reasons as mentioned above and Naples ain't one of 'em. Conversely, whenever I mention the Amalfi coast or Sicily to anyone, the response is affectionately wrapped in positives, must do's and an immediate smile.

Hold up, am I ranting? No, not really, just a little miffed at my decision making today, so let's move on. As much as I really enjoyed the camping, a change in weather and an 8 degreeC drop in day-time temperature (as measured by the bike), found me swerving tent poles for a small hotel in Sabaudia that really feels like that 'Little House on the Prairie' (for those old enough to remember The Walton's) and Lucy, the Australian receptionist, who could easily be Mary-Ellen, who didn't make me feel any better about the pending weather. [That has to be my longest sentence yet!] So the bike is parked under cover and the room has French-style double doors that open to a balcony, garden and greenery. If I do need to spend another weather-waiting day here, then this is fine, but why didn't I stay by the lakes. Aaaargh!

[Note: I'm making it sound like it was a bad day but rain isn't that bad and neither was the day. If this is as bad as it gets then I'm still in heaven]

Realisation yesterday became lesson learn't today.

Sorry there aren't many funnies in this missive but there weren't any of note today other than the ladies of the night who appear in country road lay-bys by day, mostly ethnic in origin, one of whom displayed all as I rode passed! Quite a shock to someone who's only lay-by passing experience has been a couple of senior citizens sitting in striped, fold-out chairs, enjoying a cup of Earl Gray on the A303 to Devon.

It's approaching mid-night and it's dry outside, let's hope it stays that way ... nite x

Wednesday 25 May 2011

Take Time

Today was a great day, a day of realisation that I have time and should use it more. As much as I love to ride and get itchy when out of the saddle for any length of time, to take time, rest, relax fully and just let time pass by, is a pleasure that many cry for and I should cherish.
Destinations, no matter where they are, will ways be there and I know they will wait for me.

Laying in the sun by this magnificent lake, a cool breeze gusting strong enough on occasion as if also reading Jack Kerouac's 'On The Road' and wanting to get to the next page. It is that compelling (thank you again, cousin Leon), my only regret is that I will finish it too soon. No distractions other than the compulsory occasional stare across the mesmerising water and the odd, little lizard scampering about as if the sand is too hot or maybe he's off to the local lounge. My hunger brewing, I have no need to hunt tonight as my eyes were so much bigger than my stomach, when in the deli yesterday, there's enough to satisfy.

Last night, however, brought some realisations, the most obvious that I'm not as springy as I used to be and even though the tent-test back in the Wye Valley, which feels like an eon ago, was a reasonable success, the firmer, sparsely grass-clad ground of Italy, offers little comfort. Sliding into my motorbike trousers provided some necessary padding in the right places but a trip to the campsite store this morning had me pumped with a 5 Euro air-bed that has added 5 stars to my accommodation; successfully confirmed during this afternoon's siesta ... Bliss!

The R1200GS did get its time today as a rolling iPhone charger. Luggage disengaged and phone plugged in, the Apple needed about an hour to achieve full life so this was the perfect excuse to revisit the spectacular road leading into Belsona that I mentioned in a previous blog. Still as sensational as before, in fact, better; the lighter bike much easier to throw around.

To the outdoor aficionados who must be chuckling at my noviceness (if that's a word) in this guy-rope world, I'd wished you had taken me with you sooner but then maybe it's all about timing and now is good for me. Flip-flops! I bought a pair of flip-flops! 2 Euros! Can you believe I have never owned a pair of these toe-splitting beauties and yet now they are my best friends. If I ever right a book, it should be titled ... 'Bike Boots & Flip-Flops' ... but it's more likely that Jeremy Clarkson becomes an eco-friendly vegetarian.

It's about an hour to sunset (you've already seen it in yesterday's blog) so I would kindly like to sign off now and be ready for it but before I do, I would like to mention the wonderful community spirit inherent in the openness of the campsite; sort of common themes and all that, I'm guessing but the willing friendliness is smiley and helpful without being intrusive and inspires a very pleasant atmosphere; nice place to be.

Oh, I didn't mention the swan, no, it's not a local pub, but after the sun had gone to bed last night, a beautiful white swan, all winged in that soap dish depicted way as if arranged by the Surrey Women's Guild Flower Club, gracefully appeared as if by magic. A quick dash to the tent for bread and this majestic, Masai-necked, ballerina of the lake, was feeding from my hand! Why does it always feel so special, even privileged, when a connection to nature is this close albeit that this feathered lady is not stupid and likely sells her beauty for bread at all the lake-shore sites. I hope she revisits tonight, I have saved a panini.

Sorry, just a sec, have to pose for a pic at the request of a German couple, one tent along. Vot iz ze German for cheese?

Tomorrow. Weather, apparently, still not good further south but there are some sea-shore campsites about 100 kms north of Napoli that I will head for while keeping an eye on the sky.

Ciaofornow x




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Location:Lago Bolsena

Tuesday 24 May 2011

Tuesday, May 24

A late start due to laundry duties so didn't expect to get anywhere near Napoli but the reality is I wouldn't have got there anyway ... let me explain.


Left Hotel Lido and fringed Lago Trasimeno until tangenting (if that's a word) to Chiusi. Fairly straight-ish roads to Orvieto (slurp), as per the pic from the otherside of the valley, then the best bit.
A quick segway on the subject of roads ... if the standard of roads are an indication of a country's wealth then without a doubt Italy is going to follow Greece, Ireland, Spain and Potugal with an ECB bailout and this leads me nicely to the R1200GS (if you're not a biker then skip this paragraph.

The roads after Orvieto were windy and particularly appalling but no matter the lean, the BMW's paralever suspension really came into its own. Sure footed even under very late, angled breaking during butt clenching tightening corners and a surface that was worse than cobbles; the odd skip, nothing she couldn't handle. Outstanding!

So, the approach to Bolsena reflected a wealthy enclave; fresh tarmac and sweeps and curves to cherish. Mature tree lined macadam richness while descending at a pace, it just felt like there was something to behold at the end of this avenue.



Ta da! Bolsena on, funnily enough, Lago Bolsena. Spectacular approach and probably the prettiest place yet! Decision made, I'm stopping here. I pass a campsite on the edge of the lake, let's see. It surely can't be this good. It's not good ... it's bloody fantastic!

The lady, from Wiltshire, at the campsite reception mentions the weather as I'm booking my space and upon further checks, it's raining in Napoli and there will be storms in Rome tomorrow. Perfect. I will stay here another day and time a rain free ride south on Thursday.




So, tent up, this is what I was really after and it feels like proper bike touring. The site is among trees and I'm so close to the lake's edge that I can hear the lapping of the water. Molto tranquillo.





A quick jean-clad ride to the village and panniers for table and chair, voila!




I couldn't be happier, until this happened ...


... this is why I started this journey.

I will slept contented tonight, take care you lovely people x


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Grub's up




Lots to say about today but no Internet so may have to wait until tomorrow but in the meantime, have pitched the tent and knocked up some grub ... It's about 7pm and this is dinner by the lake, another spectacular lake ... Buon appetito


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Monday 23 May 2011

Back on the road

Although a late start following a lunch in Porto San Giorgio with a few wedding stragglers, decided to head inland. Opened the map and noticed a big blue bit which was within the 250 kms radius I set myself ... Lago Trasimeno ... Glorious!

Macerata, Tolentino, winding roads through Assisi and Perugia, then Magione and after some lake circumnavigation found the perfect spot ... Passignano sul Trasimeno and a bit of a treat, the Hotel Lido, a room with a view right on the lake shore.

Taking it easy, so just a quiet beer and a very small snack given that I have eaten and consumed enough in the last 3 days to keep a herd of migrating Wilderbeast going for week. Although I did enjoy the raucous festivities, the peace of the lake shore is a perfect respite ... I will be in bed early tonight as I realised the 3 coffee stops on the way here were needed; I'm still tired. Guess I'm not as young as I used to be and my recovery rate struggles to keep pace with treacle.

Noticed a launderette while wandering around earlier which is perfectly timed as many more days will see my paniers quarantined; that's my morning chore before I trek on ... Naples I think via the coast; 400 plus kilometres but much more via non-motorway so may stop sooner, let's see how the day goes.

It's now 9pm and this lake is looking more beautiful by the minute ...

Nite nite x

The Wedding ...

Excuse me for not updating this blog for a couple of days but once an Italian wedding starts it doesn't seem to end! Lots of prep on the Saturday ready for the marriage on the beach at 6pm.

Bride half an hour late which is about right if you combine wedding traditions and Italian timing and here I am about to give her away ...

A precarious descent down a sand sprinkled stone path clad in leather soled shoes had me wishing for Pirelli Rally tyres, especially with an excitedly-shaking bride on my arm but thankfully an uneventful 50 metres found us at the beginning of a red carpet that stretched across the sand towards the bright blue sea.

A graceful handover was achieved to much applause and general Italian compliments; a Mediterranean backdrop and perfect weather and temperature conditions for 50 or so suited and booted matrimonial guests.

Much tears and laughter later, including passing beach combers and general members of the public taking full advantage of the photo opportunity (particularly one hairy chap in nothing other than his Speedo's), the newly wed's where taken to a hilltop for pictures; the rest of us to the bar. Congratulazione Samantha e Graziano!

What a night; live music, dancing, speeches, all on top of a 15 course dinner; boy, the Italians know how to have fun.
As the sun was rising many hours later and we, the remaining hard-core were saluti-ing something, anything, I gratefully turned down a lift as I thought a bare-foot wander down the beach before I returned to the hotel may help recover my sight and speech. Well, about 7am I am woken to "Sta bene, sta bene?" as a local fisherman (I think) gave me a little nudge. I guess I sat to take in the dawn and before you could sing "Here comes the sun", I was spark out. My suit, which is now on its way back to the UK, looks like it swam through shark infested waters to Croatia and back and all of Sunday was spent horizontal in the foetal position in my hotel room.
A final gathering of a wedding battered crew last night was the perfect end to what has been a marvellous 3 days and has really felt like home. It literally took an hour to say our goodbye's with a few tears that reflected new friendships made. Thank you all for a memory I shall not forget ... Arriverderci Monte Urano.

Loving Italy too much ... I think I will go south to the Amalphi coast ... 

Saturday 21 May 2011

Morning After ...

Can't say that I sprung like a spring lamb out of bed this morning but boy, was the sacrifice worth it ...

Vino Italian style, molto grande: what a fantastic evening, a warm-up to today's wedding; 3 generations of Italians on a non-school night in full flow. If you're looking for peace and quiet, this was not the place to be.
And, of course, that big table in the kitchen again, the heart of the home, is where the party started and ended. To think that I only got here less than 48 hours ago and yet it feels like home, so open, so welcoming. Viva Italia!

Friday 20 May 2011

Lunch on the beach

Saluti tutti ...


Location:Porto Sant'Elpidio

Ciao Tutti ...


It's now Friday morning in peaceful Monte Urano, the wedding venue, and from the minute I got here, the hospitality has been over-whelming. Ciao tutti, a huge wood table that seats 20 at a time in the mama's kitchen, enormous amounts of food, constant chatter and laughter, local vino and formaggio. So Mediterranean, so wonderful.



Not much to say about yesterday's trip as I needed to be here in time for lunch and having got up a little later than I should have done, I ended up just gunning it down the autostrada; Modena, Bologna, Cessana, Rimini, then right soon after Ancona. About 350 kms in just over 2 hours, again full marks to the R1200GS, from 1st gear switch-backs to eating up road at a constant 100+ mph, she just laps it all up; and to think that during my sportsbike years, I would say "if you ever see me on a BMW, shoot me" ... in truth, I can't fault the R1200GS, it keeps on delivering no matter what the circumstance.


Bike is parked up now until Sunday and looking very naked without all my clobber attached to it. Would be good to take her for a spin in the mountains without the luggage, if I can sneak away for a couple of hours.


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Wednesday 18 May 2011

Oh Yes!!!!

After yesterday's downer, I really needed today to be a goodie and boy, was it just that ...

Left Alessandria about 8.30am, under a cloudless sky, destination Maranello. The Ferrari Museum doesn't close until 7pm so I have time to take to the mountains and did so. Bardi via Laccio went into the GPS and when it asked "Do you want to avoid unpaved roads?", I boldly said "Nope" ... well, I know now what that means which I shall come to later.
So, onto (and into) the mountains I go for the 3rd day in a row with not a worry in the world but the Italian version was a proper test. The road conditions constantly changing, the rate of climb simply staggering, with 45+ degree angle of road switching back into another 45 degree climb (that low down torque of the R1200GS came into its own), barely 6 feet wide which made it interesting when a wood truck is coming the other way; 4 foot long Vipers basking in the sun enjoying the heat of the tarmac and at one point as I exited from a long-sweeper, half the road had completely subsided for at least 100 metres! Oh, did I mention that most of this was on roads without barriers leaving sheer drops which is probably why I've never seen so many flowers with messages tied to trees and sticks all along the side of the road. Such sadness amongst such beauty. (See pic, that's the edge of the road and the other pic is evidence incase you didn't think I'm in rural Italy). Oh yes, "unpaved roads" read "narrow gravel tracks"; when the GPS decided on a couple of occasions to link me to a higher road by sending me vertically up a track to get there. I'm making it sound awful but it was both breath-taking and a proper adventure. But I will tell you that I was quite exhausted by the time I got to Bardi as multiple gear changes, often not passed 3rd combined with constantly flipping the bike from side to side had my wrists, forearms and shoulders calling time-out.
While recovering in Bardi, I hear "Come far?" from, what turned out to be Mike, an Englishman who lives there and when I told him about the snakes he mentioned that if I had been riding 2 hours earlier, I would probably have come across wild boar and wolves!
I really could prattle on more and more about today's ride but will stop here only to mentioned that the Romans building ruler-straight roads is a myth as the roads I was on today were designed by that famous, maverick, Roman, civil engineer, Maximus Twistus. Hail Maximus!

OK, so I get to Maranello ... Outstanding! Ferrari factory, Ferrari shops, Ferrari Museum, Ferrari restaurants, Ferrari cafe's and yup, you've guessed it Ferraris everywhere. Heaven! Loved the museum and upon my exit ...

"Fancy a ride in my Ferrari?" says Alessandra, from Brazil.
"But it's yellow", I say
"I've got a red one", she says
"Oh, OK then", I say

Yeh, right!!!
Anyway, 50 Euros gets you 10 minutes in a Ferrari F430 F1 Spider ... SOLD! to the Armenian with the big nose. Couldn't resist. While waiting for the car to return from a previous booking, I found myself talking to the owner of the business, a bike fan too, so we are exchanging pics, blah blah blah ... 10 minutes in the car turned into 20 as the owner is now the passenger and directed me out of Maranello to some open road.

Holy @$%£! and &%?@! and ?£$%!

Well, I'm still shaking ... she just flies and when the rev needle hits 7,000 rpm ...

WHOOOOOAAAAAA!

Phenomenal piece of kit and the sound was a metallic symphony. Why did it have to end ...

What a day ... that's all I need to say .... ciao tutti x

Tuesday 17 May 2011

Pizza ...

Yup, it worked ... a pizza that you could have rapped round your head like a balaclava, una birra and some white wine that was very slightly fizzy (like Badoit) yet delicious which is why the 2nd carafe was required. Was very tempted to bar hunt for a 'chapeau de nuit' but do want a clear head for tomorrow so back in the hotel now.

Nite, nite

PS nights are getting warm now (28 degC today at max during the day), so really want to get the tent up but looks like post wedding before that happens

Bonjour to Buongiorno ...

Perfect start to the day, hearty breakfast, not a cloud in the sky and was soon on the pace continuing on from yesterday as my baby and I hugged more mountains towards Torino, Italy.
Within an hour, bonjour became buon giorno and I was well on my excitied way to Maranello, home of the Ferrari museum ... at least that was the plan.
This is Diego working on my bike. I pulled in for a normal fuel stop; filled up, hopped on, pressed the start button and all I got was a click. How can the battery be dead? Well, it was and thankfully not because it wasn't being charged, it was simply kaput. Thank God I took out European breakdown cover with the AA who, after one call, handled everything perfectly. In 20 minutes a truck arrived and 10 minutes later I was at a local garage. Plenty of Italian gesticulation later and I was on my way to BMW MotoGerardo in Alessandria, about 20 kms back the way I came.
Not the end of the world but added 160 Euros to the days expenses; let's hope it's the only one.
Meet Enrico and Barbera, who were unbelievably helpful; attended to the bike immediately, replaced the battery, diagnostic tests proved all else was fine, filled me with coffee, did all the paperwork, telephoned and organised a local hotel and then Enrico escorted me on his motorbike to the hotel and even came in to speak with reception to make sure all was well. After pointing out various eateries, he disappeared only to return 10 minutes later as I had left all my docs at his shop. What a guy, grazie mille Enrico.

After such a great morning, I'm now feeling a little flat, but only a bit as I will still get to Maranello tomorrow; besides, a pizza and vino rosso will soon have it's reviving powers.

Ciao for now, see you tomorrow x

Tuesday ...

Woke up to spectacular weather today, not a cloud in the sky, really looking forward to the ride ... Bring It On!

Monday 16 May 2011

PING!!!

That's it! ... what's exactly half way between where I am now and the wedding venue ... yup, you've guessed it ...
THE FERRARI MUSEUM in Maranello. BRILLIANT!!!! Paint me black and call me Cavallino Rampante!

Exclamation marks everywhere, but those of you who know me and my past Ferrari days will understand ... if I sleep tonight it will only be because this large wardrobe next to my bed fell on me!

Sunset Over The Lake

Doesn't do it justice but I can assure you it's simply magical ...

Lac de Serre-Proncon

After a classic 'coffee in a bowl to dip your croissant' breakfast in the farmhouse stylie kitchen and an extra slice of Christine's (B&B patron) home-made ginger cake for the day's journey, it was a fond farewell from Le Castel this morning. From there the back roads to Nuits-St-George, winding through vineyards was a special treat, albeit cloudy but warm. Fast track to Grenoble via motorway to chew up some distance quickly then the best part of the day. Climbing from Grenoble, at the foot of the Alps to Gap via La Mure, was a spectacular ride and not just the scenery; the bike was barely vertical, switch-backs and hairpins, long sweeping bends, some with steep climbs and descends. Total mountain-hugging rush. Loved it. Full marks to the R1200GS, performed beautifully with sure-footed confidence even with an extra 60-plus kilos.
Got to the man-made but nonetheless beautiful (and vast) Lac de Serre-Proncon, with some apprehension about accomodation given how much was 'ferme' on the approach, however, it should never have been a thought. As I was crossing the only bridge across the lake to Savines-le-Lac at its end, I noticed a small chalet style place dotted perfectly high enough for a view across the water. Could not have been better; Hotel Les Chaumettes, a B&B, with a cheap room available, a lock-up garage for the bike, a view and a yummy culinary recommendation that I am lapping up while I type. Aye-thang-yaw! While on thank you's, grateful thanks to Karin, from Belgium, who started the B&B a year ago.

This is my view >>>

With views in mind, I will still be at this restaurant through sunset (funny that) and I fancy a photo-worthy sky will soon materialise. Mind you once I've finished this bottle of CduR the sky will look fantastic! Slurp! Hic! Slurp! ...

PS Covered 426 Kms today ... gonna do less tomorrow ... make more stops

Choices

Decisions, decisions ... which wine?
Slurp!

Alps Ahoy ...

As much as I would love to stay longer at Le Castel (maybe revisit on the way back), it's still another 1,200 kms to the wedding destination and that's on motorways, which I won't be doing. So today, target is Lac de Serre-Poncon, about 800 metres up into the Hautes-Alpes. First leg is through the valleys of Burgandy to Nuits-Saint-George (merci for the wine last night), then fast route to Grenoble for lunch. After that the exciting part, switch-backs and mountain-hugging roads to the lake, about 500kms in all.

details and pics this evening ... CHARGE!

Sunday 15 May 2011

Happy




Oh, this is Happy, yes that's her name and she has kept me company .. I think she's really after titbits which of course she got ... woof!

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Welcome to France ...

France in a picture or Burgandy to be more precise ... simply glorious!

After 700 odd kms today I've arrived at Le Castel in Fleurey-du-Ouche, west of Dijon, to the most welcoming of welcomes by Christine and Didier, the owners of this family run B&B. To call it a  B&B feels inadequate but then this is typical rural France. I have hyperlinked Le Castel and you must click and look at the photo gallery; it is what you see and better.
As you know, not much is open on a Sunday in France (good for them, give commercialism a bloody rest) so Christine offered cheese and wine. Well, as you can imagine after a days riding I was screaming "Carry On" before she even finished the sentence and the pic is the result. And look at the view that accompanies the spread. I am currently the happiest man in France!
Not sure what tomorrow brings yet because I haven't looked at the maps and figured out how far I am from the wedding venue and how much time I need, but right now ... who cares! One sec, need another slurp ...

Oooh, lick my lips and call me Nuits-Saint-Georges!

While typing, the bride-to-be has just called and is over the moon with excitement and it seems my time in Monte Urano is all laid out ... buono (that's your Italian for "sorted", that is).

Right I need to look at these maps, hic ... which way is north? Slurp!

Channel Tunnel




Hmmm, lovely ham and grape roll for breakfast. Thank you L x

Let me on mate ...


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Saturday 14 May 2011

What fuel ...




A mere 50 miles into my trip and my fuel range read out has failed, as you can see shows zero miles of fuel left and I've just filled the tank. Das iz nicht good!
Back to the olds days of biking, will just have to keep an eye on the miles covered and guess the rest.

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Ready, Steady, Go ...




This is it, all loaded (with a little redesign) ... the journey starts now albeit that I don't actually leave the UK until tomorrow morning.
Off for an overnight stay with beautiful people in Hampshire. I'm already looking forward to a wonderful evening but it will be a sad one to leave. You will be missed, I know that already.

OK, I'm off ... next post will be from the road ... Chocks away!

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Let's get ready ...

Although I have mentioned May 15th as the day my trip starts, I guess it really starts today.
Arrived back in the Wye Valley at 4.30am this morning having picked-up dear mum from Gatwick airport (no, not on the bike) and have grabbed 4 hours of sleep. Mum talked the whole journey, in fact had me in tears of laughter as she relayed stories of the precarious driving expeditions she encountered as a passenger with her sister who lives in Cyprus. Mana mou kori mou.
I hope to set off around 4pm today and another weather check shows I should be in a boat, not on a bike! Rain is forecast for this afternoon and looks like it will still be raining when I arrive in the Dijon area (Burgundy, France) tomorrow at about 5pm.
Have to do some final running around and organising, paperwork, bike checks and then I can start loading. Excitement is properly building now and I'm keen to get going.
In the meantime, I would like to thank Natasha at Insurance Choice for all her patience and help in finding the right insurance cover, Adam at Vodafone, Mike at Infinity Motorcycles, Nippy Normans and James at BMW, Battersea. Also a big thank you to Nick Sanders for his passion and inspiration and Chris Scott for his advice and AMH, the perfect biking book, both of whom I was thrilled to meet at the Bike Show, NEC, Birmingham, last year.
Catch you later before I set off ...


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Location:Wye Valley

Friday 13 May 2011

Weather!




Just thought I would take a quick look at the weather forecast given that I shall be riding through France for most of Sunday ... Brilliant, if you're a duck!
So much for my biker-riding attitude to the rain ... 'just keep going until you reach sunshine' ... On that basis, I'll have ride 1,000 kms due south before I find any rays. Oh hum, don't be glum, CHARGE ON!

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Location:Guildford

Wednesday 11 May 2011

More painting ...




Taking a break from painting at the end of the garden of my friend's house ... Wonderfully peaceful ...

Should be finished tomorrow morning.

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Tuesday 10 May 2011

Tuesday

Still painting ... but may get this finished a day early which will be brilliant as I could do with the extra time. Keep thinking of additional bits and pieces I need for my trip.


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Location:East Molesey, Surrey

Sunday 8 May 2011

Load 'em up - Test Ride Out

Ta da ... fully loaded. Not that bad really but if she falls over, it's going to take 3 people to pick her up. The big silver box in the middle is all wedding stuff and will be shipped back once used so that will make a bit of a difference but it does help to provide a perfect back rest.
Perfect conditions for a test ride today; very windy and wet roads. Even with 55-plus kilos of extra weight added to an already heavy bike, she handled, as always, like a dream. You beauty! Zeez Germans, zey know vot zey are doing.
All good and very happy. Off to Surrey now, painting.

Ciao tutti. (That's your Italian that is).

Saturday 7 May 2011

Raining Cats and Blogs in the Wye Valley

Back in the sober Wye Valley after two liquid days in London and have been whirlingly dervishly running around getting last minute 'stuff' done as I realised while driving back yesterday that I only have this weekend to get it all sorted. That's because I'm up ladders painting a mate's windows starting Monday (this rain better stop!), which finishes Friday, then 'orf to Gatwick to pick up mum at 1am Saturday morning who is returning from Cyprus, no doubt ladened with more food than Tesco's; drive back to Wye Valley; couple of hours kip, load up the bike then back up the M4 to Reigate to stay overnight with Rick, my wonderful Italian friend, ciao caro, who will attempt to translate my wedding speech into Italian. Did I mention I'm giving away the bride at a wedding in Italy? Well, I am and besides the bride (Californian) and groom (Italian), I'm the only other English speaker, so Iya hava beena doina mucho catchina upa ona di olda linguista ... not bad eh!
(Oh, the book arrived today. Thanks, Leon)
Also added some touring bits to the bike so it's pretty much ready other than the usual checks but the only major thing outstanding is my Green Card (Insurance) that I will need to enter most countries in the Balkans. Not proving as straight forward as I thought as my insurer wants a list of all the countries I intend to, or may visit, and when. Well, given that I'll be making decisions of where and when to go, pretty much when I wake up each morning, this request isn't easy. Therefore, I have resorted to a long list of potentials within a 6 week time horizon. Not the cheapest option but the most flexible.
Another test tomorrow ... will load up the bike for a test run (will attach a pic). Although I have ridden many times before on long trips with load, it's never been quite this heavy, so need to ride-out and see how she feels. (why do men always refer to machines in female affectionate ways ... your comments on a postcard).
Right, enough for today, I feel a movie coming on ... Easy Rider! ...

Wednesday 4 May 2011

Tent Trial ..

Well, not an unpleasant night, although I had forgotten how loud the dawn chorus is at 5am having slept behind double-glazing for too many years; a bit chilly but not unbearable and nothing another layer couldn't  have cured. All in all, bring it on. Sorry for sounding such a novice to all you tentisti but this still has the new toy at Xmas feel for me and here is the offending sprung-loaded tube ...

... and the biggest test of all ... getting tent, mat and s/bag back into the tiny bags they came in ...

Blimey, woz awl va fuss abaa', awl dun in a Jimmy Riddle; you got'a luv it son. Geeze a slap an' a clap. (Shouldn't have watched Guy Ritchie's 'Revolver' yesterday starring Jason Statham). Oh, picked up an adapter today so I can charge my phone while riding ... Sweeeeet! Just love technology, at least when it works. Thought about it while having a Bags of Goodness meet with sis at are usual spot, 'That Cafe' in Newport; lovely latte, thank you Fleur.

London tomorrow ...

Tuesday 3 May 2011

PS ...

Just had to post these comments from my cousins, made me giggle:

"Good luck young Christopher, enjoy the wind whistling through your.....erm, have fun!!!"

"Gets us a pint of milk while you're out"


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Snug as ...

... a bug. All cocooned up, warm and cozy, ready for the night ahead and what a beautiful night it is. Clear skies in this rural valley reveal billions and billions of stars as Prof. Brian Cox would say, and it is simply spectacular. For those interested, the Eta Aquarids Meteor Shower is just about visible at the moment (North on the horizon) and peaks in the next few days; it's a meteor shower associated with Halley's Comet; and it's a new moon.
Anyway, so far so good, got my warm and toastie 10 tog socks on, although I did sneak a pillow out with me as a special treat. Ready for lights-out now or should I say torch-out ... sleep well, whoever's reading this drivel ... Nite nite


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Location:Wye Valley (still)

Tent-tastic

Right then ... given the last time i pitched a tent i was wearing a woggle, the focus' for today are testing tent erection skills (steady) and blogging technology. Talking of focus, really need to find some as I'm sure there's somebody else here helping me with this bottle of Rioja.
Anyway, waited til dusk as I figured it's toughest to erect in the dark (oh, will you stop it, it's not funny, woof, get down, who's ya daddy) and all done in a surprising 20 mins. Temperature is going to be just below zero tonight according to metcheck which is colder than it will get on my travels (i think) so I'll quickly find out if my bag is a worthy tog.
Secondly, if you can see this post then hurrah, the second test has worked as I'm looking to keep this blog up-to-date via my mobile.
Off to make coco now, (inside with electric kettle, hey not too much excitement in one day), so will finish this post from from the other-side, tent-side ...



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Location:Wye Valley

First Blog: First Post ...

Midnight, May 2nd; my first blog; my first post; with less than two weeks to go to my road trip. My trusty motorcycle (BMW R1200GS) and I are off for a wander so I thought I would set up this blog as a diary; I hope my discipline holds and I keep this up-to-date. Some background first, in brief ...
I'm 52 and have been separated for some two years after 20 years of marriage. Our son of 22 is building his own independence, so life's commitments, not all by choice, have lessened and all is much simpler. Therefore, having found myself in a somewhat liberated space, I thought I would take it to the next level and stopped work about 6 months ago, hence opportunity prevails (at least until my limited funds run out), so given my love for two-wheeling travel, I'm off into many sunsets (should be Going West ... doh!).
May 15, I plan to leave the UK and slowly zig-zag my way to my only commitment of the trip, a wedding in Italy, which will be a delightful kick-off  for what should prove to be the biggest, longest trip I ever taken.
I won't go into detail as there isn't any because I have planned very little; I intend to literally take every day as it comes and see where the mood of the day takes me.
All very exciting and I'm keen to get started but have some organising to do ... ordered spare bulbs, medical kit, air pump, and stuff from Nippy Normans today; arranged European breakdown cover through the AA (why does that feel like cheating) and found my passport and some Euros ... nearly there (sooo not).
Anyway, see you tomorrow, when I christen the tent with a trial run in the garden.